Don’t Plant Yet! 6 Things You Gotta Do First for a Thriving Garden
Before that first seed hits the soil, there’s a whole world of prep work happening behind the scenes.
Gardening isn’t just tossing seeds into the ground and hoping for the best
It’s about observation, planning, and intention.
This pre-garden checklist is everything I wish I had when I started.
Whether you’re growing in containers, raised beds, or directly in the ground, this guide will help you build a solid foundation for a successful season.
1. Observe Your Space:
Light, Land & Location
One of the first things you should do is evaluate whether your chosen space is suitable for growing. Most crops need a minimum of 6–8 hours of sun per day.
Crops that thrive in 6–8 hours: Lettuce, kale, carrots
Crops that require 8+ hours: Tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers
From September 2024 to March 2025, I was outside at different times of day watching how the sun moved across my garden plot. I took pictures throughout the day and used the timestamps as references. It may sound obsessive, but the sun is everything when it comes to food production.
Flat vs. Sloped Terrain
Also consider the type of terrain you're working with:
Flat Terrain Gardening
Easier for bed construction, walking, and maintenance.
Sloped Terrain Gardening
Natural drainage but requires more setup to prevent erosion.
2. Garden Protection:
Fencing, Netting & Wildlife
Is the garden fenced? Can you afford to install netting? Will wildlife be an issue?
The Great Squirrel vs. Bee Dilemma
Even with a fenced yard, I’ve had trouble with squirrels, rabbits, and groundhogs.
I set up this netting to stop squirrels from tearing through my squash bed (again)... and it worked. But then I realized: no squirrels, no bees. And no bees means no fruit.
If you know a way to keep the pests out without blocking pollinators,.
I’m all ears. Seriously, drop a tip and save a gardener in distress.
Others may also be dealing with deer.
Protective measures make the difference between harvesting lettuce and watching it vanish overnight. Consider:
Fences
Netting
Raised beds with lids
Motion-activated sprinklers or deterrents
3. Choose Your Method:
Container, Raised Bed, or In-Ground Gardening
How you choose to garden, whether in containers, raised beds, or in-ground, directly impacts what you can grow, how often you’ll need to water, and how much maintenance you’re taking on.
Container Gardening
Simply growing plants in pots, buckets, or grow bags.
It’s perfect for beginner gardens and gardeners who don’t really want to bite off more than they can chew or have the space needed to really go all in, but still want to experience the joy of planting.
Perks:
Space Efficient
Great for patios, balconies, or small backyards.Portable
Move containers to follow the sun or protect from bad weather.Pest & Weed Control
Fewer weeds and some pests are easier to manage in containers.Soil Control
You get to start with clean, nutrient-rich soil—and avoid contaminated or compacted ground.Water Management
Containers drain well (when designed right), reducing risk of root rot if monitored.Flexibility
Grow a wide range of crops—even those that don’t do well in your native soil.
Pitfalls:
Dries Out Fast
Containers lose moisture quicker than in-ground beds—daily watering may be needed in summer.Limited Root Space
Some crops (like large tomatoes or squash) may get stunted without deep enough containers.More Frequent Fertilizing
Nutrients leach out faster—regular feeding is a must.Initial Cost
Containers + soil + amendments can add up quickly.Temperature Swings
Soil in containers heats and cools faster, which can stress plants.
Raised Bed Gardening:
Growing in framed garden boxes filled with custom soil mixes, elevated above ground level for better control.
Raised beds come in a variety of sizes and materials and can be mixed and matched all over the garden.
I do believe they are the most aesthetic for a pretty garden if planned correctly and well.
Perks:
Better Drainage
Raised beds drain faster than in-ground beds, preventing waterlogging.Improved Soil Control
You control what goes in — no fighting with rocky, clay-heavy, or compacted native soil.Warms Up Faster in Spring
Great for early planting in cold climates (hello, Pittsburgh frost zone).Less Bending = Less Strain
Easier on your back and knees compared to ground-level gardening.Defined Space = Fewer Weeds
Keeps things tidy and makes it easier to mulch, weed, and maintain.Can Be More Productive
Intensive planting in healthy, deep soil = bigger harvests in a smaller space.
Pitfalls:
Higher Upfront Cost
Lumber, soil, compost, and hardware can get expensive—especially for multiple beds.Water Can Drain Too Fast
In dry spells, you may need to water more often.Not Mobile
Once built and filled, they're pretty much permanent.May Require More Soil Over Time
Beds settle and break down, so you'll need to top off or refresh soil each season.Can Attract Digging Critters
Gophers, squirrels, or even curious pets might treat them like a sandbox buffet.
In-Ground Gardening:
Growing directly in your native soil, using traditional beds dug into the earth with minimal structural setup.
Disclaimer: This photo was taken at Shiloh Farms during my apprenticeship with Grow Pittsburgh. While not part of Prairie Dog Farms, it reflects the in-ground gardening techniques I’ve learned and now apply in my own space.
Perks:
Low Cost
No lumber, no containers, no hauling soil—just you, a shovel, and some grit.Deep Root Growth
Plants have more room to stretch their roots, especially if your soil is loose and healthy.Natural Water Retention
In-ground soil holds moisture longer than raised beds or containers, reducing how often you water.Easy to Expand
Want more growing space? Just dig a little further.More “Set It and Forget It” Friendly
Once it’s established, in-ground beds can become low-maintenance with the right mulching and crop rotation.
Pitfalls:
You’re at the Mercy of Your Soil
If it’s clay-heavy, compacted, rocky, or depleted—it’s a battle from day one.Drainage Issues
Poor drainage zones can lead to soggy roots and disease (especially during spring rains).Harder on the Body
More bending, kneeling, and digging—it’s full-body work.Slower to Warm Up in Spring
Cold soil = delayed planting (and slower growth early in the season).Weeds, Weeds, Weeds
You’re working with native soil, so weed seeds already have home-court advantage.
The type of crop you want to grow can completely change HOW you grow it.
For example, I keep my mint and blueberry bush in containers. Mint spreads aggressively, if I planted it in the ground, it’d take over my yard.
Blueberries, on the other hand, are just plain picky. They prefer slightly acidic soil with a pH between 4.5 and 5.5, and after multiple failed in-ground attempts, I’ve found containers give me more control.
Back when I was gardening in my college bedroom with a patchwork of pots, there was no chance I was growing a full head of cabbage.
But my back stoop was enough to support fresh herbs and a tomato plant that flourished in containers.
Your method shapes your garden’s potential.
Choose what fits your space, budget, and lifestyle.
4. Decide What You’ll Grow
This is hands-down my favorite part of the pre-planning process!
Choosing which crops are worthy of my limited and precious bed space.
You can keep it simple by grabbing seed packets at the store, ordering online, or even saving seeds from kitchen scraps or past harvests. (I’ve done all three.)
I’ve already broken down how I choose my crops in my blog post, Backyard Garden Planning: What I’m Growing for Profit vs. Passion.
If you want a deeper dive into picking crops with purpose!
But here’s the golden rule I always come back to: grow what you actually eat.
These days, another one of my favorite parts of gardening is experimenting. Trying out new crops or fun varieties of old favorites. But I also stay realistic.
For example, we don’t eat eggplant in my house, like, at all. so I’m not going to waste time, space, or energy growing it. Stick to what you’ll use, and build from there.
But if you’d like to introduce new vegetables into your diet, this is the perfect opportunity to try growing varieties that simply aren’t offered at your local or big-chain grocery store.
When adding flowers, choose varieties that work for your garden
Not just ones that look pretty.
Most blooms will attract pollinators, but these 8 stand out for how much they help your plants thrive.
Top Flowers That Attract Pollinators to Your Garden
1. Calendula (Pot Marigold)
Bright orange/yellow blooms that attract bees and hoverflies
Edible petals and medicinal uses
Great for borders or tucked into veggie beds
2. Zinnias
Loved by butterflies and bees
Easy to grow from seed and bloom all season
Tons of colors and sizes, from dwarf to tall varieties
3. Borage
Star-shaped blue flowers rich in nectar
Attracts honeybees like crazy
A nitrogen-fixer
4. Nasturtiums
Attract pollinators while also acting as a trap crop for aphids
Edible flowers and leaves with a peppery taste
Great for container edges or trailing over raised beds
5. Bee Balm (Monarda)
Brings in hummingbirds, butterflies, and native bees
Grows tall with firework-shaped blooms in red, pink, or purple
Also has herbal uses (mint family)
6. Lavender
A bee magnet with bonus fragrance and perennial beauty
Thrives in full sun and well-drained soil
Deters pests while drawing pollinators in
7. Coneflowers (Echinacea)
Big daisy-like blooms loved by butterflies and native bees
Drought-tolerant and hardy
Adds vertical color to garden beds
8. Alyssum
Low-growing with tiny white or purple flowers
Attracts hoverflies and pollinating bees
Excellent ground cover in veggie beds and borders
Flowers That Might Look Beautiful, But Could Cause Trouble in the Garden
Disclaimer: I haven’t personally grown all of the flowers listed below, especially the ones known to be invasive or potentially harmful. This list is based on research and common experiences shared by other gardeners. Always do your homework before introducing a new plant into your space—your zone, soil, and setup might react differently.
Before you start tossing in every gorgeous flower you can find, hold up. A few of those beauties come with baggage.
1. Morning Glory
Why it's risky: Incredibly invasive. Once established, it vines aggressively and can choke out nearby plants.
Note: Not to be confused with edible sweet potato vine—these are ornamental and fast-moving.
2. Wisteria
Why it's risky: Gorgeous and fragrant, but extremely aggressive. Can crush trellises and steal light and space from veggie beds.
Note: Not ideal near raised beds or small spaces.
3. Crown Vetch
Why it's risky: A nitrogen-fixer that grows rapidly and is very hard to remove. Will take over beds and smother crops.
Note: Often planted for erosion control, not garden compatibility.
4. Foxglove (Digitalis)
Why it's risky: Toxic to humans and pets. While it’s beautiful and does attract pollinators, you don’t want it near edible crops—especially with kids around.
Note: It's a medicinal plant, but not safe for most home gardens.
5. Sunflowers (in excess)
Why it's risky: Sunflowers are beautiful and pollinator-friendly, but their roots release allelopathic compounds that can inhibit the growth of nearby plants (especially potatoes and beans).
Note: One or two are fine, but don’t overplant too close to your main crops.
6. Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia)
Why it's risky: Can attract aphids and spider mites. Also reseeds heavily and may take over smaller gardens if not maintained.
Note: Best in borders or wildflower zones, not tight veggie beds.
7. Daylilies
Why it's risky: While some parts are edible, they spread quickly and compete for space and nutrients.
Note: Not all varieties are edible, and many behave like ground-hogging perennials.
5. Know When to Plant:
Frost Dates & Zones
Starting your seeds indoors a few weeks before your last frost date gives your plants the head start they need to survive and thrive once they’re moved outside.
Transplants need time to grow strong roots and sturdy stems before they face the unpredictable elements of the garden. Trust me, I’ve learned this the hard way. I’ve lost more tomato and pepper plants than I’d like to admit by starting too late and rushing them into the soil before they were ready.
Timing matters.
Give your plants a fighting chance.
Gardening articles love to say “start seeds 4–6 weeks before last frost.” That’s helpful once you understand what your frost dates are.
Your Last Frost Date is the average date your region experiences its final spring freeze.
Your First Frost Date is when fall’s first freeze typically hits.
This will shape your planting timeline.
Growing Zones (aka USDA Hardiness Zones) divide North America based on temperature range.
Zone 1 = Coldest
Zone 13 = Hottest
Prairie Dog Farms = Zone 6b
Last frost = Late April–Early May
First frost = Mid–Late October
If it’s a spring crop
Lettuce, Kale, Cabbage
I start seeds in February.
Summer crops like
Tomatoes, Squash, and Beans
I start those in April indoors for a head start.
Check your average last frost date using a local extension office or
6. Gather Materials:
Beds, Soil, Amendments & Tools
Closer to the growing season, you’re going to want to make sure all of your materials are ready to go. If you’re doing in-ground beds, it’s recommended to get your soil tested.
I opted out of this step because I essentially have raised in-ground beds. I shipped in all the soil and amendments myself. Since I was starting with fresh soil I wasn’t worried about, I skipped the test.
But if you’re planting directly into your native soil, I’d really encourage you to get it tested so you know what amendments you’ll need to add before planting.
If you’re doing raised beds, I’d recommend building and prepping them before planting day.
That way, when it’s time to get your plants in the ground, the process is smooth and stress-free.
The easier the plants go into the soil, the more peace of mind you’ll have.
I’ve spent 3–5 hours prepping, measuring, building, and planting beds. It’s taxing on the body, but the reward of seeing it all come together gets me through it.
From Seed to Scene:
Why a Garden Plan Matters
The best part about locking in your WHAT, HOW, WHEN, and WHERE is that now you get to bring it all to life with a visual garden plan.
Seeing your layout mapped out can be surprisingly fun (and super helpful).
Raised Bed Layout Using GrowVeg
Whether you’re sketching by hand or using a tool like GrowVeg’s Garden Planner, a visual layout helps you plan for plant spacing, companion planting, and even pathways
Making Planting Day feel less like a puzzle and more like a celebration.
I remember building mine right before a Dungeons & Dragons session, sitting at the table tweaking where to place my peppers, onions, and cabbages, and trust me, your plan will change.
Unless it’s air-tight (and most aren’t), give yourself some wiggle room.
I’ve added lemongrass, creeping thyme, and three surprise pineapple plants since my original plan.
Planning is powerful, but don’t forget to enjoy the process. This part is where your garden first starts to feel real.
The Garden Starts Long Before the Seeds
I’m not here to tell you how to garden
I’m just sharing what I’ve learned so far.
My first garden was chaotic. I grew too many crops, didn’t prepare well, and lost a lot of plants.
But each year I’ve learned. This checklist reflects those lessons.
Know your WHERE, HOW, WHAT, and WHEN, and you’ll be better prepared for a successful growing season.
A garden starts long before you plant, it starts with intention.
Random side note (but it’ll make sense in a second):
I studied Multimedia / Graphic Design in college. One of my favorite courses was “Professional Video Editing.” My professor once said:
“Great Pre-Production makes Post a hell of a lot easier”
I’m paraphrasing of course, but the point remains:
Take the time to plan and prepare now. Your future harvest will thank you.
If you’ve made it this far, you’re already ahead of where I was in my first season.
Let’s grow something real this year.
Not Sure Where to Start? This Checklist Has You.
Starting a garden feels exciting… until you realize how much goes into it.
Sunlight tracking? Soil prep? Raised beds or containers? Frost dates?!
That’s where this free Pre-Garden Checklist comes in.
What You’ll Get:
✅ 6 easy-to-follow steps to get your garden started the right way
✅ Real advice for real yards (yes, even your tiny patio or sloped backyard)
✅ A printable PDF you can hang on the fridge, take to the garden, or screenshot
✅ Tips that help you grow food, not just frustration
